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Soon, the tranquil Guanghua Temple is within sight. Outside, and shielding it from external evil, is a screen wall while protective figures also run along the edges of its tiles. Originally constructed with imperial support in the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), it has since undergone extensive restoration.

Local life goes on around us. School children crowd small kiosks selling drinks and noodles while pigeon keepers proudly chat in rooftop lofts. Just opposite, a popular exercise area is great for people watching while nearby courageous swimmers brace the icy waters of the lake.

Following the tiled path running along Xihai's pine-tree clad shores, we spot the massive Deshengmen Gate which dominates the northern skyline. Imperial armies once passed through it on the way to battle. As we continue our tread we again reach the narrow canal leading to Houhai that was once a bottleneck causing major traffic jams on the water. Apart from the mode of transport used, Beijing really hasn't changed all that much, has it?
 
An arch built from heavy stone blocks supports the bridge carrying Deshengmen Nei Dajie across the canal. The present road surface also shows some of the original ancient stonework. Further head, a narrow lane leads back to Houhai. Looking at Houhai from this vantage point offers an all new perspective on the scene.

Behind a grey tiled wall nearby stands a colorful pavilion － part of the water sports centre. Beyond, across the lake sits Wang Hai Lou Pagoda while the magnificent Gulou and Zhongloum again come into view. This area is much busier than Xihai and is a popular local fishing spot. Bicycle and boat rent can be found while a park provides entertainment for children.

Some beautifully restored buildings nearby offer another taste of Old Beijing. Of particular interst is the prominent Cha Jia Fu teahouse which boasts Ming- and Qing-style furniture. Strolling past brick walls enclosing the Catholic Church, the street turns southeast as we find a panoramic view stretching all the way back to the canal leading into Qianhai. The view provides a very romantic accompaniment to couples sitting in the nearby bars.

Passing a smart outdoor beer garden rebuilt from a crumbling pavilion, a metal sculpture appears depicting an elderly man performing tai chi. This street, called Yangfang Hutong, is also popular with the pedicab tours whose excited tourist passengers try to film every passing image.

Nearing Silver Ingot Bridge, bars continue to line the streets. With bountiful use of timber and grey tiles, some really ture the feel of Beijing's historic hutongs. However standing out is one building, a craft shop, which resembles a Tibetan home. At the bridge, older bars such as the Buddha Bar provide places to relax and watch the constant flow of life.

Now following the western shore of Qianhai, the scene subtly changes. To the north across the water, Gulou rises over grey rooftops while the wooden lattice shutter windows of No Name Bar are again seen as they enhance the lakefront atmosphere. The pavement was recently re-laid and a lakeside garden where older people exercise has been upgraded. Buildings including new bars, restaurants and art stores are being constructed with traditional carpentry to recreate Old Beijing.

However some authentic reminders of the past also survive － there are several vintage siheyuan courtyards along this section , each with distinctive stone piers leading into former villas. One courtyard has stunningly intricate dragons carved on its stone piers. Some of these have however undergone considerable internal refurbishment for their new commercial functions.

An archway opens to the lake's south shore. Past the well-known Shuai Fu Beijing Hotpot Restaurant is the entrance to Lotus Lane, one of the city's latest bar streets and until recently a quiet antique district.

Art installations featuring wooden blocks that support glass cases displaying vodka bottles appear at intervals along the boardwalk. With excellent views across the water to Gulou, many restaurants with their large windows and outdoor seating are ideal for relaxing and reflecting over the beauty of the lakes and their many contrasting spots. A great end to a lovely walk.

(CRIENGLISH.com)

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