Day One Autumn in Norway –The Last Myth of Human Civilizations?

Far to the north on the Scandinavian Peninsula, there is a long and narrow country, where you see moonlit lakes, deep fjords surrounded by mighty snow-capped mountains, and long rivers and cold streams cascading down the mountain sides.

It is a place known to many as a land of the midnight sun, home of many world famous artists like Edvard Grieg, Edward Munch, and most above all Henrik Ibsen with his drama "A Doll's House" featuring the renowned awakening woman image Nora.

However, Norway is far more than just that. Only a century ago, Norway acquired its independence from Sweden, and as one of the few Nordic countries that refused to join the EU, Norway remains unique and somewhat exclusive to the outside world.

But how much do we know about this Nordic country which has inspired so many artists? What makes Norwegians the way they are? What can we learn from them? Our very own Yan Yinan traveled to Norway and during the trip she met the people from whom the mysteries gradually untangled.

Norway is vast and the land is full of extremes. The endless coastline stretching from the south to the north reminds people life could be so different on the other side.

The night before my departure, I almost broke my suitcase trying to stuff in some heavy winter jackets because I had an impression that the north is cold. But when I stepped onto the Norwegian soil I realized the misconception I made. I had to carry my heavy clothes all the way during the journey. Just like Beijing, it was autumn in Norway. Due to the coastal streams, the weather was mild and wet, quite a bit of rain. The trees began to boast beautiful autumn colors.

There is a Norwegian saying "There is no bad weather, only bad clothes." Meaning Norwegians from small children to old pensioners, outdoor activities are part of their daily routine.

The closeness to nature is something I was immediately touched by the first day I arrived in Bergen, the second largest city in Norway. A thriving economic and trading port, Bergen lies on the southwest coast of Norway, among 7 mountains and 7 fjords. It was also called the gateway to the Fjords. Just in case you don't know what a fjord is, the fjord is formed by the ocean inflow between steep cliffs.

The fjords are indigenous to Norway and one can simply feel the pulse of the country after a boat trip along the coast. The hurtigruten, which in Norwegian language means the costal super highway, is thought by many as world's most beautiful sea voyage from Bergen to Kirkens. The Coastal Express has been in service for more than 100 years.

From Bodo, another coastal city along the route, I embarked on one of the Hurtigruten ships called Ms. Polarlys, a beautiful ship with a beautiful name. Although the original purpose of the ship was to link the west coast communities in Norway and transporting cargo, nowadays according to Captain Robertson of Polarlys, tourism is considered crucial to the service.

Polarlys captain: It is true, just as the Captain said, the landscape is the first thing to grab everyone's attention. It is a feast for the eye to watch the magnificent snow-capped mountains studded with pretty little wooden houses along the route. The ocean voyage seemed to me to be the most direct impression of the country because every stop on shore brought me closer to the local people and their coastal lifestyles.

Captain: But for an 11 day round trip on the sea, what ensures environmental protection for a luxurious ship like this? I found a little notice posted on the cabin door saying "Please avoid chemical powders when washing laundry." 
 
The captain himself is a pensioner, like most of the passengers on board. It's a good and relaxing trip according to him.

The voyage helped me understand more about Norwegians' close connection to the ocean and nature. They are shy and tough, rustic and romantic.

The romantic fairytales and folk stories, top-notched ship building techniques, the controversial Viking vs. Pirate sentiment, as well as many of the Norwegian-only customs inspired and prompted my question: What are Norwegians doing to better preserve their traditions amidst the fast pace of global economic development?

Chinese people obviously are experiencing this tradition vs. development syndrome, as the country is competing very hard in the international arena. Interestingly enough, Norway, a highly advanced country with its favorable welfare policies, and enough daylight to keep its citizens happy and smiling at least half of the year round, also confronted the same problem.

The captain on the traditional hurtigruten route said aside from promoting the traditions, they have developed special programs to better adapt to social needs and modern development. 
 
The captain has worked on the ocean for 22 years, and from him, I can sense the pride he feels as a Norwegian. He is one of the many skilled seamen I met in Norway; you never have to worry sailing with him. Just enjoy the many breathtaking views along the Fjords, because he knew what he was doing.

Well, now you have experienced the mild side of the sea by voyaging with the safest and most comfortable ship in Norway, tomorrow I will show you how dangerous the sea actually is by taking a fast boat to the world largest whirl-pool called the Saltstraumen, near Bodo, a coastal city in Norway. Also, don’t miss a special Stone-age dinner with a local fisherman.

I am Yan Yinan, Hadet! See you tomorrow!