Clickto Listen

In one place, we even find a natural singing hall with a perfect echo.

There's a story behind every piece of stone, but to appreciate them means using one's imagination.

And finally we come to our destination, the Ashima rock. According to popular legend, a beautiful maiden named Ashima was kidnapped by the son of an evil landlord and forced to marry him. Her name means "as precious and bright as gold" in language of the Yi people. Her love, Ahei, went to save her with his magic bows and arrows.

(Photo Source: baidu.com)

Ahei and the kidnapper competed by singing for 3 days and 3 nights; Ahei finally won by outlasting his opponent. On the way home, however, Ashima was drowned in a flood and became what is known today as the Ashima rock. Standing there in her traditional costume, carrying a basket and looking into the distance, she is seen as a protector of the Yi people.

"Some people say the best way to know a nationality is to know their festivals. And if you are lucky as I am, you will have the chance to join the most important festival for Yi people, the torch festival. Now come with me."

The Torch Festival is a traditional festival for the Yi People. It is usually celebrated on the 24th of the 6th lunar month each year. Shilin contains the largest community of Yi people and each year the festival draws tens of thousands of people. Each family lights a burning torch outside their home.

One part of the festival and one of most popular activities in Shilin is wrestling. On the grass under the scorching sunshine, dozens of wrestlers fight in groups, moving swiftly and attacking powerfully. It is a competition of strength but also skill and technique.

There are nearly 10,000 spectators at the playing field. They sit or stand on the rocks and lawns, watching the game, talking and eating. Several groups of people are dressed in traditional costume, men are playing their folk music and women are dancing to it.

Elder men play the small sanxian or three-string instrument like this.

And young men play big sanxian like this.

Why do people wrestle and play music? Legend has it that in ancient times, there was a devil named Shidali who destroyed happy people's lives. A strongman called Baochong decided to fight him and they chose a wrestling match as the contest. They fought for three days and three nights but neither could win. The locals came to encourage the strongman, by playing their sanxian, blowing short flutes, clapping hands and stamping feet. The devil Shidali was finally defeated.

18-year-old Lou Fangrui is a young player from a nearby village. He had some cuts on his face after a fierce competition.

"It is a tough competition today because my opponents are very strong. Although my team won the first place in the group match of the tournament I am not at my best. I only won one game out of three."

But tonight is the torch festival. So he and his teammates and coach will surely forget their worries in the celebration.

More on Traveling in Yunnan Province:
Travel Express Vol.64: Fascinating Yunnan          
Photo Gallery: Finding Shangri-La
The Lost Horizon
The Yi People