Yao Qin (瑶琴)

Theme
The guqin (zither).

The story
Upping the tone, so to speak, the seven-stringed guqin is regarded as one of the most refined of traditional Chinese instruments. It was favoured by public officials in imperial China as a self-improvement tool on a par with calligraphy. Taking this as its inspiration, Yao Qin has recreated the feel of ancient China using old-fashioned décor and regular performances. The quintessential strains of the guqin (performances from 7-9pm daily) flood the room while a dedicated tea brewer mans the elaborate wooden table. Yao Qin’s menu is largely devoted to Zhejiang cuisine, with mustard prawn balls (68RMB) a popular choice. Meanwhile, savouring the aged notes of pu’er tea (50-80RMB a pot) is the perfect complement to an evening’s appreciation of this genteel setting.

The East is Red (红色经典主题餐厅)

Theme
Revolutionary China.

The story
Located out in the realms beyond the Fifth Ring Road, finding this restaurant is half the fun (bargaining with a cab driver to get home afterwards is the other slab of joy). Be sure to arrive for the twice-daily stage show, a troupe of boot-stomping, gun-toting singers who rattle off Communist propaganda anthems. That is, if you can take your eyes of the décor, which includes rousing murals, statues and a life-sized truck made to look as if it’s half-burst through the wall. Surprisingly popular, despite the out-there location, it’s hard not to wave your flag (yes, each table gets a Chinese flag) as you struggle to lift the hefty menu of somewhat indigestible classics – although the toothpicks of venison were pretty moreish.

Trojan Fairy (木马童话黑暗餐厅)

Theme
Utter darkness.

The story
A bright painting of a Trojan horse, a giant squid and an exploding volcano in the atrium signal you’ve arrived in the right place. Diners are asked to choose from three Western-style set menus (521-999RMB for two people), then you drop your personal items in a locker and get ready to literally be led to your table. Trojan Fairy is dark! In fact, it’s pitch black – that’s the point. You can’t see anything: the table, your companions, not even the food you’re eating. The idea is that by cutting out the visual sense, a diner is able to better judge the quality of their meal. Of course, that’s where Trojan Fairy rather falls down: mediocre Russian salad, average pumpkin soup – even the pricier menu is hardly fine dining. But you come for the experience and, despite the food, there’s plenty of fun to be had. Just remember to book a day in advance.