Praised by Marco Polo as "the noblest city and the best metropolis in the world," Hangzhou is one of the most beautiful places in China. This pleasant city is endowed with beautiful gardens and waters, and was one of the ancient capitals in Chinese history.
Let's follow Ning Yan for a stroll around today's Hangzhou.
Located on the lower reaches of the Qiantang River in East China and only half an hour's drive from Shanghai, Hangzhou is a must see on the itinerary of a tour in China.
More or less, people visit the city for the shining pearl on this beautiful land, the West Lake.
Legend has it that the lake used to be an auspicious pearl formed into its sparkling shape by the Jade Dragon and the Golden Phoenix. But it was later stolen by the Mother Queen of the West. When Jade Dragon and Golden Phoenix fought with the Mother Queen, the pearl accidentally fell on earth and became a dazzling lake.
In ancient times the West Lake was a lagoon, a quiet arm of the sea. Later, the Qiantang River was silted up and so was the mouth of the lagoon, which appeared and disappeared with the flow and ebb of the sea. It was not until the Sui Dynasty about 1,500 years ago that the lake took shape.
Ever since then, the West Lake area has been the idyllic retreat place for literati. In one of the best known poems by Song Dynasty poet Su Dongpo, he wrote: "Rippling waters shimmer on a sunny day, Misty mountains shrouded in rain; Plain or gaily dressed like Xizi, the West Lake is always alluring."
Standing by the lake, it's easy to understand Su's allusion to Xizi, one of the four most famous beauties in ancient China. Depending on the location, the season and even the time of the day, the West Lake puts on different charms. And if one is lucky enough, one can enjoy the ten most well known sceneries of the Lake, which have been famous since ancient times. They include Spring Dawn at Su Causeway, Breeze at Crooked Courtyard, Autumn Moon on Calm Lake and Melting Snow on the Broken Bridge.
From last March, a show called "The Impression of the West Lake", featuring the history, folklores and mythology about the Lake, was put on stage. After a whole day's sightseeing, travelers may sit by the lake and enjoy the show, with the beautiful water and sceneries serving as its luxurious backdrop.
Of course, sipping the local Dragon Well Tea is a must do in Hangzhou. The tea is renowned for its smooth leaves, fragrant scent and subtle taste. Though the earliest record of the tea was found in Tang Dynasty about 1,400 years ago, its origin remains a mystery.
Gao Hong, from the China National Tea Museum, tells us one of its legends.
"Emperor Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty was quite a filial son. When he heard that his mother was sick, he was so worried that he put a leaf he just picked in a book. By the time he rushed to his mother, he dropped the book on the ground and a refreshing smell floated in the air. The queen felt so much better, and her disease was miraculously cured. Since then, 18 tea trees were designated as royal trees. Every year, the leaves from these trees must be sent to the palace and then roasted into the shape like the one flattened in the emperor's book."
Though once exclusively for the royals, Dragon Well tea is now enjoyed by the ordinary people. The tea is widely served in tea houses in Hangzhou.
Like pubs and cafes in western cities, tea houses are scattered in Hangzhou, and are mirrors reflecting the local culture.
Hangzhou native Xu Zemei is a tea artist in a local tea house. She started picking tea leaves and making tea in her childhood.
Watching Xu Zemei serving tea is an enjoyable experience. When she easily and graciously infuses the tea with hot water, tea leaves slowly float up like pretty water lilies.
Xu Zemei tells us more about the cultural connotations in her refined movements.
"The movements have been compared to a phoenix nodding three times in a row. And the movements are much more than just an entertainment. You see, when we infuse the tea leaves with hot water, we lift and lower the teapot three times. This is for tea leaves to absorb water well, and the three times of lowering the teapot is just like bowing three times to the guests, showing your respect."
Kiraz Perincek from Turkey is among Xu Zemei's guests. She says Turkey is also famous for tea production. While enjoying Xu's performance and sipping fragrant Chinese tea, a tea song from Kiraz's hometown naturally flows out from her throat.
"The locals tell me that in China, instead of saying 'drinking tea', they like to say 'savoring tea'. I learnt on my trip that what's worth savoring is not only the subtle taste of Chinese tea, but also the deep culture behind it and people's life about it. I love the city and its beautiful beverage."
