Cochin--Looking for Reminders of Zheng He's Voyage to India

2006-08-28 17:40:58 CRIENGLISH.com

China and India's bilateral exchanges can be traced back to some 2000 years ago. One important entry in their bilateral history books is the story of the 14th-century Chinese voyager named Zheng He. Pioneering the first express sea-route through the western Pacific and the Indian Ocean, Zheng He's large expedition team brought gifts, trade and friendship to over 30 nations en route, including India. At that time, the cities of Cochin and nearby Calicut on the west coast of India were important mid-way stopovers during his voyages. So during my trip to India not long ago, I went on a fact-finding trip to Cochin, hoping to spot some traces of this great ancient navigator's visits.

Even before I stepped foot in Cochin, I learned that there is a type of Chinese fishing net that is used off the coast of Cochin, that might somehow be related to Zheng He's ocean voyages. I’ve learned that this kind of fishing net has only been found in southern China and in Cochin. But what else would I find in Cochin? I was full of expectations during my flight.

Upon hearing we were from China, the gentleman sitting next to us, an Indian engineer named Tilakan, soon struck up a pleasant chat with my colleague and me. As a local from Cochin, he soon began to talk about the Chinese fishing nets.

"The Chinese fishing nets have been there for over six hundred years. One of Zheng He's followers mentioned the fishing nets in his book. That means China and India's relations had already been very close about six hundred years ago. The Chinese fishing nets are proof of that. They can still be seen along the beaches of Kochin even today."

As we were curious about Zheng He's fame among Indian people, we asked Tilakan to tell us more of what he knows about Zheng He.

"About six hundred years ago he arrived in Cochin. He recorded many things about the Kalera civilization, the local customs as well as their own activities there. This book later was translated into the Malayalam language from its English translation. It's a good book, which to some extent reflected the Indian civilization and Kalera's culture at that time. I read this book about 40 years ago, but I remember its content even today."

After landing at the Cochin airport and parting with Tilakan, my heart began to beat faster in anticipation.

Cochin is known to be the second most important city on the western coast of India, after Bombay. It's a vibrant city in the scenic state of Kalara. According to records left by Zheng He, this is the place where Zheng He's fleet had temporarily stopped for trade and replenishing supplies for further sailing.

When we arrived at Cochin Beach, it was already late afternoon. There against the sky golden from the setting sun, several dozen huge yet elegant Chinese fishing nets flanked the entrance to the Kochin harbor. The nets look like giant wood-ribbed umbrellas, hanging from 30-meter-tall wooden posts.

The tide had gone out and most fishermen had finished their day's work. Some were still selling their day's catch. I approached one named James, in the hope he will tell me something about the fishingnets.

After that, I posed similar questions to many other local people.

NJ: Can you tell us something about these Chinese fishing nets, when did they begin to exist?

Dinesh: These Chinese fishing nets were introduced here by Kublei Khan, Chinese traders in the fourteenth century. So these things have existed for six hundred years. Every three years, they change the wood.

NJ: Nester, do you know any history about these Chinese fishing nets? Why are they called Chinese fishing nets?

Nester: They originated from China I believe. I heard from my childhood. I heard since the tenth century, a lot of Chinese people came to India. From there, this Chinese fishing method is adopted. Only you see this kind of fishing method in Cochin. They taught us fishing as well as the pottery. They taught us to make this kind of pottery and tiles. It's a kind of method and tradition we adopted when they left Cochin.

NJ: Do you know a person named Zheng He? He is a historical figure.

Nester: I heard the name. But I'm not very sure about it.

The information from the local people was a little confusing. Maybe they themselves were confused about the years, or maybe there are two versions of the story - that these nets might have been introduced to Cochin by Zheng He's team through the sea route, or by traders who came to Cochin via a land route.

What we heard from Renos Zevie Chorobalanbai, the curator of the Indian-Portuguese Museum, where many ancient Chinese items are kept, was just as unsatisfactory.

Renos: The fishingnets were introduced here by the Chinese. That's why we call it Chinese fishingnets. Actually we don't have a written evidence about these things. Only we still see these nets.

NJ: But who told you they are Chinese fishing method?

Renos: From my ancestors.

Although I was a little disappointed about this hazy history, it seemed to be a common belief that these huge nets were introduced here by the ancient Chinese.

Nonetheless, we did have some exciting discoveries.

At the India-Portuguese Museum, we saw many pieces of Chinese pottery and China wares that date back to centuries ago. And inside a synagogue in the city, there may be another clue to Zheng He's visits: Hundreds of old hand-painted Chinese porcelain tiles pave its floor. The tiles are several centuries old. It's said the porcelain tiles were given by Chinese traders to the King who ruled Calicut at that time, but were somehow later given to the local Jewish community.

We also found some other aspects that we believe to be from Chinese influences. For example, the boats at the Cochin beach have protruding dragon tails, very much resembling traditional Chinese wooden dragon boats. More importantly, Cochin also hosts dragon boat festivals, a tradition that can't be found anywhere else in India. The festival originated in China, and is still celebrated here every year.

After returning home from my trip, I consulted professor Geng, from Beijing University's Indian Research Center. Her explanation for the lack of clarity of that part of history in India is that the country lacks an official written history.

Yet she confirmed Zheng He's visits to Cochin.

"Between 1405 to 1433, Zheng He and his expedition ships started out from China's East Sea and arrived at India's west coast seven times. The first three times, he stopped at cochin and Calicut, which is close to present-day Cochin. Beginning in his fourth voyage, he headed to Africa after a stop at Calicut. When he first arrived at Calicut, he brought many gifts from the Chinese emperor to the king of Calicut. These stories are all recorded in the books written by Ma Huan, one of his followers. Ma Huan also noted how they sealed deals with the locals by clasping each other's hands according to the local custom."

But in the end, whether the Chinese fishing nets were introduced by Zheng He or by other Chinese traders is not important. What is important is perhaps what Tilakan, our friend on the plane to Cochin, said to us.

"China and India have similar a cultural background and ancient civilization. Our two countries should strength our exchanges. I hope there will be more Chinese visiting India, visiting Kalera and also more Indians going to China. We could learn from each other, enhance our understanding and friendship with each other."

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