The main reason for visiting Songpan is the surrounding countryside. The most popular method of exploring this is by horse trek, which seems to make up a large part of the town's economy. Whilst there are two shops offering horse treks, they are in fact the same company, having been forced to merge in 2003 by the local government and public safety bureau. The most popular options are two-, three- and four-day treks, all charged at 100 yuan a day. Tailor-made packages can also be organized.

Treks spider out in all directions from Songpan into the surrounding hills. Each morning, the action is centered on the horse trekking office as tourists and horses are paired up. What you see is dependent on the number of days of your trip. Various routes are available going to hot springs, waterfalls and mountains. The experience varies according to the guides, weather, travelling companions, season and route taken. I chose a four-day trek to IceMountain. This took us up through some quite literally breathtaking scenery.

Jiuzhaigou, billed as one of the most beautiful places in China, is two hours to the north of Songpan. Meaning "nine-village valley," the national park is renowned for its natural scenery. However, it is actually wrong to call it one valley as it is in fact Y-shaped. Nestled in the valley floor are a series of rivers and streams which link lakes and waterfalls. The lakes are famous for their different colors, which are mainly hues of blue and green. The total area is 720 square kilometres, with elevations between 2,000 and 4,800 meters.

The problem with Jiuzhaigou is that it is too popular, with somewhere in the region of 2 million visitors a year. Weekends should be avoided at all costs. The entrance fee is a steep 145 yuan, with an additional 90 yuan for the buses. Quite why they sell this as a separate ticket is unclear because the tickets are not checked on the buses. The buses work by taking everyone to the furthest point and then making stops on the return journey. There are wooden paths going down the valleys linking the lakes and falls. Officially it is no longer possible to stay within the park. However, there are many overpriced hotels just outside the entrance. Few restaurants are within the park and it is best to take your provisions in with you as the stores charge very high prices. Probably the best time to visit is in autumn when the colours of the trees would make a vivid contrast to the lakes.

On my return to Chengdu, I discovered what remains of the old city and glimpsed what may well be its future. Kuan Xiang Zi Street and the surrounding area is home to many old buildings and also the Dragon Town Youth Hostel. Whilst the hostel is actually less than 20 years old, it is built in the old style. Qintai Lu, part of the new Chengdu, has been created in a traditional style as a tourist street and is somewhat reminiscent of Singapore's sanitized Chinatown. Is this the future for Chinese cities?

(Source: That's China)

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