Later I found that the Mosuo people are very talented singers. From a three-year old child to an 80-year-old grandmother, every one was a good singer. And Geru told us that singing was a unique way the Mosuo people expressed their feelings. When a new baby was born, or old people died; at a wedding ceremony or funeral, the Mosuo people always sang songs to show their grief and joy.

As night deepened, the youngsters assembled at a spacious courtyard to hold a bonfire party. Young girls dressed in long white pleated skirts, long sleeved brightly colored satin shirts, and sjals, a kind of hat with flowers on it. But something else I noticed was that the young men bore a strong resemblance to the gauchos of the Argentinean pampas with cowboy hats and colorful jackets that were tied with brightly colored sashes and dark trousers tucked into tall boots.

Young people sang and danced together at the bonfire party. The songs were traditional and sung in a high-pitched voice. And the high-spirited dances—accompanied by a flute—were usually performed in a circle around the fire.

Geru told us that the bonfire party is where the so-called walking marriage took its first step. Women here may pick and choose a male companion for the night or a year or lifetime. However, times have changed, and now the nightly song and dance show has become a sort of beginner's class in Mosuo dance for tourists.

Early next morning, we went to visit Xiao Luoshui, a mountain that offers an excellent view of the lake.

Most tourists are happy to settle for a boat ride on the Lugu Lake. The nearby mountainous area is hardly explored by outside visitors. Tourists are advised to climb the mountain with a local guide. And our friend Geru was happy to accompany us.

Mosuo people see the mountain as a gift from heaven. Along the mountain road we could see piles of rock with multi-colored Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags flying on them. Geru told us that they were called Mani Piles, and people could add more rocks on them and make wishes.

We were all out of breath as we climbed up the mountain and the scene that unfolded before us made us feel like we were dreaming. Finally reaching the top of the mountain, we could see cotton candy clouds flowing over our heads. The whole lake was bathed in sparkling sunshine, and the villages were enveloped in patches of smoke from cooking fires.All of us were intoxicated with the beautiful sight before our eyes.

Time was limited and we were soon on our way back to Lijiang. But before I left Lege Island, I asked Geru if he preferred to stay in a modern city like Beijing or Lugu Lake.
 
The Mosuo fellow told me that the outside world was very colorful and attractive. However, he left home only because he wanted to have a peek at the rest of the world. He said that the most important thing for the Mosuos is family. No matter how far away they traveled, their hearts remained at home. 

(Photo/text by CRI reporter Sun Yang)

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